The final episode of EpicTV’s Board Stories focuses on Tom Stone and the traditional surfboard he carves with his own hands from native Hawaiian wood. Tom had been a professional surfer in the 1970s, a Pipeline pioneer, Surfer magazine cover star as well as an avid waterman, windsurfing champion and North Shore lifeguard.
Once he heard the old call though he turned academic and educator, completing three Masters Degrees in Polynesian Studies and becoming a professor at the University of Hawaii. “I went back to what I had learned from my Dad and started carving boards,’’ says Tom in this episode. “I wanted to know if some things were fallacies in the surfing world. How much had been made up and what part of our known history was the truth or not.”
He does this by re-creating the ancient surfboard making traditions and then simply doing what he loves; going surfing. This episode follows not just the history of the boards he makes, but of surfing itself.